We are glad we made a stop in Lanzarote, where the landscapes are very different from the other Canary Islands. From there, we sailed to Madeira. This is the opposite direction to the usual sailing route. Because the prevailing winds, used by explorers and merchants since the age of time, blow from the north.
HAND STEERING
The crossing from La Palma to Lanzarote takes about 40 hours (230 nm). It goes from west to east and we could take advantage of northerly winds this time.
Towards the middle of the second day, the electricity suddenly went off. This meant that all the equipment we have on board for sailing (auto-pilot, chart plotter, AIS, radar, etc.) or for living (fridge), were no longer working. We were too far to see Lanzarote and still had a long way to go.
While Yan was investigating what was happening, Silvia was handsteering using a compass and the wind indicator at the top of the mast.
Fortunately, before nightfall and getting too close to the coast and shipping lanes, Yan set up the back-up computer with the charts (powered via the inverter which was the only way to use the energy of the battery). This allowed us to know where we were and to confirm that we were heading in the right direction. He aslo figured out how to get the auto-pilot working, while turning off the rest of the equipement. This made it easier to continue our journey overnight. To our surprise, when we turned on the motor to get to Arrecife, everything started working again.
It turned out that the Vicron battery protect was faulty and needed to be replaced. Thankfully, there are good ship chandlers in Arrecife and Yan was able to procure the required parts (more details upon request).
ARRECIFE
Lanzarote is the easternmost island in the Canary Island archipelago, about 100 km west of Morooco. Arrecife is the main town with a big commercial harbour and marina.
Under the impulse of local artist and architect César Manrique, Lanzarote shifted away from mass-tourism toward a high-value, more sustainable model. It imposes limits to the access of natural sites and strict architectural rules (e.g. whitewashed low-rise buildings) to preserve an identity despite the 3.5 million yearly visitors (for only 160000 inhabitants).
TAKE A STROLL IN A LAVA TUNNEL
To explore the island, we went on an organized bus tour. First, we stopped at Cueva de los Verdes and took a stroll in a lava tube. The tunnel was created when the top of the lava stream cooled and formed a solid crust, while the rest of the lava stream drained away. The lava tunnel extends for 6 kilometres above sea level and for another 1.5 kilometres below the sea. In about 20 spots, the roof of the tunnel collapsed, giving access to caverns known locally as a jameo.
At Jameos del Agua, César Manrique created a restaurant, museum, auditorium, gardens and pools wihtin the magnificient setting of the caves.
MIRADOR DEL RIO
At the north tip of Lanzarote, Mirador de Rio is a beautiful point of view toward La Graciosa, a well know achorage for sailboats (permit required).
WINE PRODUCTION
During the bus tour, we stopped in a bodega. Wine is growing in areas where a fertile soil was covered by a thick layer of lava ash and small fragments of lava (lapilli).
After digging a hole until the buried soil is found, the vine is planted with a deep root system. Frequently, the hole is accompanied by a rock structure that acts as a windbreaker to protect the plant.
MARTIAN LANDSCAPE
In contrast with other islands in the Canaries, Lanzarote lacks high mountains to capture the moist from the trade winds. Combined with little rainfall and constant dry winds, it is hard for vegetation to grow.
However, we found beauty in these bare volcanic landscapes, displaying colors of red, yellow and black, while visiting the Timanfaya national park.
UPWIND TO MADEIRA
To sail from Lanzarote to Madeira (290 nm, a little more than 2 days), we had to compose with the prevailing northerly winds. We waited for a period of moderate wind with an easterly component and were able to sail upwind most of the passage. All went well.
Next, we will stay in Madeira for a few weeks before sailing to Gibraltar.