Summer Solstice in Stornoway (Lewis)

This is the northernmost point of our journey this year. We arrived for the summer solstice. At a latitude of 58 degrees, the sun still sets, but there is barely two hours of darkness. We appreciated these extended days and enjoyed the good company of sailor friends: Chantal and Jean-Yves (Groucho) as well as Pascal and Jacques (Sealex). We spent two weeks in Stornoway, visiting the area and working while an unfavorable weather system passed.

Stornoway – Shaped by Vikings and Maritime Trade

Stornoway’s harbor, named by Vikings (“Stjórnavágr” meaning “steering bay”), provided a safe haven for ships which favored the development of trade and travel.

As the main town of the Outer Herbrides (5000+ inhabitants), Stornoway features a strong Gaelic culture, apparent in arts and events. In school, children can take classes in Gaelic.

Lews Castle

Just on the opposite side of the river stands Lews Castle. It was built as a country house for Sir James Mathesone. After a recent restoration, it has opened its doors to visitors as a museum, event venue and luxury hotel.

Stone alignements

Not far for Stornoway are the Callanish stone alignements. We wish we could travel in time to watch the people who erected these stones in the late Neolothic. What was the meaning of the cruciform alignment? What type of ritual activity did they perform during the Bronze Age? Probably, it is this very mystery that keeps facinating us.

As we continued walking, we discovered two additional stone cercles.

Then while wating for the bus, we went to the Alpacaccinos Café and its charity run alpaca visitor centre.

Blackhouse village of Gearrannan

On another bus trip, we discovered a village of stone and thatched-roof houses that used to be common, particularly in the Outer Hebrides.

The name of ‘Blackhouses’ comes from their dark, peat-smoke stained appearance. Peat, extracted locally, was used for heating and cooking.

The farmers (crofters) also earned an income by weaving tweed cloth. Made from pure virgin wool, this cloth offers protection against the often wet and cold climate. It is now commercialised under the brand of Harris Tweed.

Butt of Lewis

For this third bus trip, our sailor friends joined us. We first had to walk, against the wind, to reach the lighthouse at the most northerly point of the Outer Hebrides

Fun fact: After beeing fuelled by fish oil in the beginning, the light used a paraffin burner (1869) and finally electricity (1976). Three Keepers operated the lighthouse and lived at the Station with their families. But since the automation, it is now remotely monitored from Edinburgh.