In the footsteps of the Knights of Malta

The history of the Knights was one of the reasons that attracted us to Malta. We were intrigued by this archipelago full of contrasts and strategically located in the middle of the Mediterranean.

Knights of Malta

The Knights played an important role in the protection of Malta from attacks. They ruled over the archipelago for 276 years, building fortifications and developing trade.

Initially, the Order of the Knights of Saint John was formed in the 11th century in Jerusalem and began as a religious order. The primary objective of these Hospitaler Knights was to look after the wounded and ailing pilgrims. They acquired wealth and lands and began to combine the task of tending the sick with waging war on Islam, eventually becoming a major military force in the Crusades.

After the Knights lost their headquarters in Rhodes at the hands of the Ottomans, the Spanish Emperor Charles V offered them the Maltese Islands and Tripoli in Libya (1530) in exchange for one Maltese falcon a year.

Bus tour on Gozo

Gozo was the first island we visited in the maltese archipelago. Because it has little natural resources and no big natural habour, the Knights first did not care much about Gozo. They however had to include it in their defense system to prevent invasions.

We went on a bus tour and enjoyed the beautiful landscapes, with layered cliffs and terrassed agriculture.

There are no less than 359 churches, chapels and cathedrals scattered over the maltese islands. Almost one for each day of the year.

On the west side of Gozo, we loved the limestone cliffs around Dwerja. We had seen them when arriving by sail, but the wind and waves were too strong to anchor here.

(Look at others) Swim in the Blue Lagoon

After a few days in Mgarr marina, we left Gozo and crossed the short distance to the west side of Comino. There lies a beautiful azure colored lagoon attracting sailors and swimmers.

We anchored a little further south east. Then, we took the dinghy to look more closely at the caves and go ashore for a walk. However, the temperature was too cool for us to jump into the water.

Northerly bays of Malta

The next day, we sailed around Comino towards the main island, Malta.

Large bays are located at the north east of Malta, providing anchorage areas. Ghadira bay, with its large beach is an example of the many holiday resorts.

With the intention to buy a maltese courtesy flag, we also stopped in St Pawl’s bay. The local patrol had warned us that we needed one. Unfortunately, we could not find a chandlery on Gozo and the one in St Pawl’s only sold the flags with the white cross, reserved for Maltese boats. We finally found the appropriate flag in Valetta.

Port of Valetta

The more we approached Valetta, the capital of Malta, the more the buildings became dense and high.

While entering the port, we were impressed by the amazing views of the fortifications and cites that developped around the fingers of this long natural harbour.

Grand Harbour

There are several marinas in the area of Valetta. We moored in Grand Harbour marina, beautifully located in front of the Maritime Museum. As we arrived on Easter Sunday at noon, there were church bells ringing and fireworks. What a warm welcome!

Fort St Angelo

One of the most celebrated accomplishment of the Knights is that they withstood the great siege and repelled the Ottomans (1565). This siege was the peak of an escalating contest between the Christian alliances and the Islamic Ottoman Empire for control over the Mediterranean.

Fort Saint Angelo is one of the fortifications that the Knights reinforced. They also turned it into their headquarters.

During World War II, the presence of a British (the last Empire to own Malta before its independance) naval base at Fort Saint Angelo made it a prime target for Italian and German air force bombings.

The 3 cities on the east side

When the Knights arrived in Malta, they made Birgu the capital : the old capital, Mdina, was indeed inland and unsuited to the demands of naval warfare.

Together with Bormla (or Cospicua) and Isla (or Senglea), the 3 cities are located on the east side of the port, where the Knights initially settled.

Baroque style Valetta

After the great siege, the Order decided to build a new capital, Valetta, on the west side of the harbour and moved their headquarters there.

Saint John’s Co-Cathedral

While in Valetta, we visited the cathedral dedicated to Saint John the Baptist. The lavishly decorated interior is a contrast to the sober exterior facade and the vow of personal poverty of the Knights.

Initially modestly decorated, the Grand Master Raphael Cotoner ordered the redecoration of the interior of the cathedral, so as to rival the churches of Rome.

Do the Knights still exist?

The former territorial ownership gave the Order an unusual status. After Malta was taken by Napoleon, the Order had to find a new place and eventually settled in Rome. Although not a state, they are officially an independent terriotry, giving them observer status at the United Nations. They even have their own passports, postage stamps and, in many parts of the world, ambassadors.

While members of the Order of Malta traditionally belonged to the aristocracy, the emphasis today is on a nobility of spirit and conduct. The 13,500 Knights and Dames of the Order of Malta stick to their motto “Tuitio Fidei et Obsequium Pauperum” – protecting the faith and serving the poor and the sick – which now translates in humanitarian projects and social assistance in 120 countries.