Trying to hide from the orcas (Gibraltar to A Coruña)

Throughout the month of September, we progressed from Gibraltar to A Coruña, along the Portuguese and Spanish coasts (covering a total of 650 nautical miles). We were back in the area where Orcas have developed the annoying habit of “playing” with sailboats and damaging their rudders. There is not much sailors can do, except avoid crossing their path by staying very close to the coast. Fortunately, we only met joyful dolphins along the way! On our next journey, we will cross the Bay of Biscay to reach La Rochelle or the Gulf of Morbihan. Orcas have been seen there as well, but less frequently.

Boat projects (Lagos)

At nightfall, as we still had a long way to go along the Spanish / Portuguese coast to reach Lagos, the computer in the doghouse just stopped (less than 2 years old). We use this display a lot during the night watches as it not only shows the chart and the route but also the radar and the AIS of other boats. This reminded us of the scenario in Peter’s Yachtmaster training, where you have to write down your navigation plan on paper in case your electronic chart plotter fails. Fortunately, we have redundancy: a second display on the helm (to which we also upload the charts). We could continue our navigation safely to Lagos.

In Lagos, Yan identified the culprit: the SDD (solid state drive). With efficient help of Boreal/TEEM, we set up Silvia’s laptop as a temporary remplacement until we reach Tréguier.

The other equipment that failed was the central bilge pump. When facing a lot of waves, water comes in via the anchor chain tube despite the cloth we rigged around the chain to reduce the water inlet. Maybe the pump had been overworked since Sardinia? Replacing it also solved another issue: the Isolation test now is green again.

As we left Lagos, we had a last look at the beautiful rock formation of Ponta di Piedade.

Conveniently located along the coast, the marina of Cascais offered the ideal stop-over in a cosy coastal resort connected to Lisbon by train.

Hugging the coast

Because physical interactions with Orcas had been reported in Peniche and Nazare on the days we were making our way from Cascais to Porto, this section was the most worrisome for us. There are several sites that show maps of reported physical interactions, for instance Orca in Portugal and Spain or GT Orca Atlantica. The authorities don’t do much to facilitate the cohabitation between sailboats and orcas. The main recommandation is to stay close to the coast (in no more than 20 meters depth).

Statistically, sailboats seem to be targeted more often than other types of ships. Hence, we hoped that thanks to our aluminium hull and lifted centerboard, we looked more like a fishing boat than the regular “toy”.

However, staying so close to shore involves several dangers: rocks, acceleration zones or no wind, swirls forming around cliffs or shallows. And, less predictable, the many fishing nets!

Relaxing in Porto

Needless to say that we were happy to arrive in Porto. We stayed in the marina of Povoa de Varzim, connected to Porto with the train. We had really liked Porto on our way down the coast and were looking forward to visiting again.

It’s a race (A Coruña)

During this last passage to the northern coast of Spain, we expected wind from the south, pushing us up the Atlantic coast. Unfortunately, the front moved further south and we got only little wind but lots of waves and rain.

We rounded Cabo Finisterre during the night. The next morning as we were progessing along the north coast of Spain, we noticed the AIS marks of several sailboats coming from the north and containing the mention of “Solo sailor”. All the boats were 6 meters long, hence relatively small for crossing the Bay of Biscay. After a while, we realised that it was a race: it was the participants of the Mini-transat (solo sailing without assistance from France to the Canary Islands and then accross the Atlantic to Guadeloupe). They had left Les Sables d’Olonne 3 days before and were completing the crossing of Bay of Biscay before heading south. They had faced tough conditions in the bay!