While waiting for favorable winds, we spend a nice week in Cherbourg and brushed up our knowledge of WW2 history in Utah Beach (Normandy). Then, we sailed to St-Quay-Portrieux (Brittany) where Fabule’s check-up will start with the engine maintenance.
Deep water harbour – Cherbourg
Located at the tip of the Cotentin Peninsula, Cherbourg features a deep-water harbour thanks to the building of a long central breakwater 4 km off the coast and protected by 3 forts. Napoleon Ist intended to make Cherbourg his main military port and accelerated this gigantic work. It made the harbour safe and accessible for ocean liners, like the Titanic who stopped in Cherbourg before leaving for New York. Combined with a direct train line from Paris, Cherbourg became a major point of departure for European emigration to the Americas. Today, ferries run regularly to the UK, the Channel Islands and Ireland.
The military base occupies the west part of the harbour. In addition, there is a naval base that constructs huge submarines. Located in the former Maritime Station, la ‘Cité de la mer’ allows visitors to explore the nuclear submarine ‘La Redoute.’
Les parapluies de Cherbourg
The city center of Cherbourg has a large pedestrian area with many shops and restaurants. We were also reminded of the movie, Les parapluies de Cherbourg (1964, with Catherine Deneuve in her 20s).
WW2 landing: Sainte-Mère-Eglise and Utah Beach
In family discussions, at school or in movies, we had often heard of WW2 and the landing in Normandy that changed the course of european history. We must admit that it was moving to actually stand on the beach where these battles were faught and so many people died. Utah Beach is one of the five landing places. The mission of the US soldiers arriving here was to reconquer Cherbourg and secure access to the deep water harbour.
In Sainte-Mère-Eglise, a paratrooper got stuck on the roof of the church. Their mission was to weaken German defenses before the landing. The village was the first liberated by the allied forces.
The various museums do a great job in displaying and explaining what happened. In the current time of growing unrest worldwide, something should be learned to avoid the human tradegy of wars launched by megalomaniac belligerant leaders.
Night sail to Saint-Quay-Portrieux
Timing was key for the start of this passage. The tidal current is very strong (up to 8 knots at springs) around the Cap the la Hague. We left Cherbourg at noon and first had to sail upwind until we could round the peninsula and head south. Pushed by wind and current, our speed over ground reached 12 knots, setting a new record. There were a lot of waves and it felt like in a washing machine.
A little further, the seas quieted down and we were set for a nice night sail (steady wind on beam / broad reach) for Saint-Quay-Portrieux in Brittany.
After the sunset, we started our night watches and arrived early morning. We enjoyed a delicious croissant before getting some more sleep.
